Rock Band Stratocaster dissected

[BriGuy]

As many of you know, I enjoy modding guitar controllers. The other day I decided to actually stop playing the game for a night and take a peek inside the guitar to see what makes it tick. Wow! It is loaded with possibilities for easy mods. Some of this has been covered before, but here is a brief rundown of some interesting finds.
(This is the 360 version BTW, although I'm sure a lot of what is described here applies to other models as well)


*Since this forum makes it very difficult to post a multi-picture thread, here is a link to an easier to read complete post including detailed pictures of 4 known guitar models:
http://rockband.scorehero.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1902

(Part 1)

The unused battery compartment:
http://i18.tinypic.com/6nvyxkk.jpg
Although I'm sure this vestigial organ is only there because of cross model production simplicity, This offers a built in power source for extra stuff like LEDs or something. Bonus!

The strum bar (1st gen) and tilt sensors:
http://i9.tinypic.com/72v9kx4.jpg
Here is a pic of the 1st gen strum mechanism looks like. It's got the somewhat problematic metal leaf contacts. Mine has a small gap between the strum bar and the upstrum contact that I've corrected by adjusting the
tension screw. (method described here) (http://rockband.scorehero.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1831)
Notice the wire placement over the strum that may or may not have caused problems. I have since moved the wire aside.
Also notice the hooks that are on the top and bottom of the strum bar with complimentary hooks above and below. These are aparently an unused feature to stabilize the strum mechanism. I haven't tried it yet, but 2 small rubber bands or springs may be attached at these spots to add extra tension and perhaps stop double strumming problems.
The tilt sensors are back to the old school style of ball bearings in a tube (vs the ultrasensitive and non adjustable accelerometer of the GH3 Les Paul) When rolled around or shaken you may hear a rattling noise coming from these...this is normal. There are 2 here to add a redundant factor to prevent false OD activations. The best part about these is it allows for fine tuning of the tilt angle!!!


Tilt sensor adjusted for higher angle:
http://i4.tinypic.com/6k4pz4m.jpg
If you unscrew the tilt assembly screws, you can reposition the sensor and tape it in place. My guitar was too sensitive and the sensor has been adjusted so it requires you to raise it higher to activate the OD. The more you angle it down, the higher you can hold the guitar without OD activation.

The d-pad and start/back circuit board:
http://i14.tinypic.com/6pja0bo.jpg
There are two great features about this. Everything is so clearly labeled in case you wanted to solder onto these connections. The letters BGSLURD stand for Back, Ground, Start, Left, Up, Right, and Down. Also notice the extra contacts for Up and Down (and the unused J14/J15) These are unused on the board but they can be easily and separately soldered onto for Killswitch type mods (I'm not sure if up and down still double as strums)

[BriGuy]

(Part 2)
Posts are limited to 4 pics each so I had to split it up.

The neck:
http://i7.tinypic.com/866o8w5.jpg
Here is the dissected neck after the head has been snapped into place. The metal plate goes between the neck pieces. The head can be removed when this is dissasembled.

The head:
http://i8.tinypic.com/8ac2a76.jpg
This simply shows that the tuning nobs are connected on one piece and can be carefully pushed in and out its slot.

Main buttons:
http://i3.tinypic.com/8fbokz9.jpg
By using two small flathead screwdrivers or thin needlenose pliers, the buttons can be pushed out of the housing from the bottom by pinching the two tabs. This mechanism slides in the sleeve and the button tops are pushed back up by the springs in the button contacts on the circuit board.

Solo buttons:
http://i2.tinypic.com/8ekzuoj.jpg
Same thing but smaller.



Thats all I have time for now, but I may revisit this post and edit it with some other goodness. Good luck out there modders!!!

[jaredstokes]

Nice job! Now if only there was a way to fix the strummer and the crapy xbox headset connector.

[logicalnoise]

very cool. thanks for all the work.

[Ultrace]

Interesting information. Although I'd likely never mess with my strat like this (except to fix it if something goes wrong way down the road), it does make me wonder... Due to the similarities, could you rewire the guitar so that the "solo" buttons were the ones at the lower frets near the head? Although it would make solos much easier, it would be neat to utilize the non-strum functionality without using the munchkin buttons. :)

[BriGuy]

Due to the similarities, could you rewire the guitar so that the "solo" buttons were the ones at the lower frets near the head? Although it would make solos much easier, it would be neat to utilize the non-strum functionality without using the munchkin buttons. :)

I think this would be reasonably easy to do, but there is not much point to it. The solo buttons can already be used to play like normal, and the non-strum feature only works for the end-song finale where speed counts and the solo buttons work better anyway.
If you really wanted to do your end song solo on the main buttons, you could give it a try, but I'm fine with the layout as is for now.

Edit: Do the solo buttons work for mid song solo sections too? I thought they were only for the endings....If so, this mod would be more useful than I thought. hmmmmmm
I'll have to double check the wiring, but it may be possible to wire up a toggle switch that switches the solo buttons to the top and back again. Now that would be cool

[masterx1918]

please update this is you find a way to fix the strumbar.

[netshark]

please update this is you find a way to fix the strumbar.

fixes have already been posted. Mine had got slightly bent so the metal wasn't flush with the plastic behind it anymore. A little krazy glue to keep the metal attached to the plastic in the back worked fine. Other people have inserted paper in between the metal and plastic.

[Slinky826]

fixes have already been posted. Mine had got slightly bent so the metal wasn't flush with the plastic behind it anymore. A little krazy glue to keep the metal attached to the plastic in the back worked fine. Other people have inserted paper in between the metal and plastic.
The single screw that is holding the leaf switch in place can be loosened and the switch can be adjusted and moved closer to the strummer. I had to do this myself thanks to the double strumming effect I was getting. Since the switch was too far from the strummer, when I strummed down, it would make contact as normal, but if I pushed the strum bar down as far as it would go, the contact would break. When the strum bar was released and returned to the neutral position, it would make a second connection and "double strum." I tested this throughly with a digital multimeter that has a closed circuit tester (emits a tone when the circuit is closed).

I also added two low tension springs onto those hooks. Not sure if they do much, but it certainly doesn't hurt.

[Ultrace]

Edit: Do the solo buttons work for mid song solo sections too? I thought they were only for the endings....If so, this mod would be more useful than I thought. hmmmmmm
I'll have to double check the wiring, but it may be possible to wire up a toggle switch that switches the solo buttons to the top and back again. Now that would be cool
Yeah, the non-strum solo button thing works during mid-song solos. Basically anytime your fretboard goes blue, you wouldn't need to strum. While I haven't had much experience in hard and expert as of yet, from some videos I've seen (Green Grass and High Tides, for instance), this would be a big deal... Although absolutely considered a cheat. ;)

[Brute Physics]

Yeah, the non-strum solo button thing works during mid-song solos. Basically anytime your fretboard goes blue, you wouldn't need to strum. While I haven't had much experience in hard and expert as of yet, from some videos I've seen (Green Grass and High Tides, for instance), this would be a big deal... Although absolutely considered a cheat. ;)

Cheat? I think thats why they MADE the solo buttons. That is definitely not a cheat.

[kleners]

Those wire clips on the button must stay they are the same as a keyboard button. AKA the enter spacebar and other long buttons. without it they will sink down and be unusable. so you have to leave them.

[netshark]

Cheat? I think thats why they MADE the solo buttons. That is definitely not a cheat.

he's talking about moving the solo buttons to the larger buttons that way they are easier to press.

[Ultrace]

he's talking about moving the solo buttons to the larger buttons that way they are easier to press.
Exactly. The current balance to the power of the solo buttons is they're more difficult to use. Transposing those with the larger, more accessible buttons would definitely make solos a lot easier.

[Tyrsis]

fixes have already been posted. Mine had got slightly bent so the metal wasn't flush with the plastic behind it anymore. A little krazy glue to keep the metal attached to the plastic in the back worked fine. Other people have inserted paper in between the metal and plastic.


Actually there are two different guitars out there at the moment. The one I had was COMPLETELY different from that. There were no metal contacts, instead the strum bar would hit a tiny plastic switch. It seemed EXTREMELY cheap, and it busted within 2 days.

[netshark]

Actually there are two different guitars out there at the moment. The one I had was COMPLETELY different from that. There were no metal contacts, instead the strum bar would hit a tiny plastic switch. It seemed EXTREMELY cheap, and it busted within 2 days.

oh wow, I saw pics of that guitar, but I thought it was a fixed version where it wouldn't break. Guess I kind of lucked out that I got the easily fixable one. However, after fixing it myself, I voided the waranty for it. So I hope nothing else breaks that I cant easily fix.

[LongDarkBlues]

Yeah - I assumed the 'microswitch' version was the new one, too - that's a shame. I'll be curious to see what the replacement ones look like on the inside...

[tbradshaw]

The "microswitch" are not the final revision. The "nicest" ones I've seen have magnets and induction coils (not unlike the kick pedal). That's where my money is for "most reliable", no physical friction or contact at all.

[Stevenam81]

The "microswitch" are not the final revision. The "nicest" ones I've seen have magnets and induction coils (not unlike the kick pedal). That's where my money is for "most reliable", no physical friction or contact at all.

Freakin' sweet. Has anyone posted any pics yet? If this is the case, I will get a replacement.

[sprinter461]

My guitar, when you try to tilt it from the normal playing position to activate overdrive, nothing happens. You have to tilt the guitar to where the neck is parallel with the floor first, then tilt it almost straight up, then it activates. I ususally have to tilt it two or three times because I forget to go level first, by the time od activates, I've usually broke my multiplier trying to trigger od. Other times, the OD jsut goes off without tilting the guitar whatsoever. What would I need to adjust to correct this?

[Chris_Gonzalez]

I think this would be reasonably easy to do, but there is not much point to it. The solo buttons can already be used to play like normal, and the non-strum feature only works for the end-song finale where speed counts and the solo buttons work better anyway.
If you really wanted to do your end song solo on the main buttons, you could give it a try, but I'm fine with the layout as is for now.

Edit: Do the solo buttons work for mid song solo sections too? I thought they were only for the endings....If so, this mod would be more useful than I thought. hmmmmmm
I'll have to double check the wiring, but it may be possible to wire up a toggle switch that switches the solo buttons to the top and back again. Now that would be coolYeah, they're main function is to turn the entirety of solos (where the fretboard turns a light blue, not like the dark blue of Bass Groove) into one long hopo sequence. If you could make the regular fret buttons do that, that would be helpful because my hands haven't gotten used to the cramped space that is the solo buttons.

[xlr8shun]

Freakin' sweet. Has anyone posted any pics yet? If this is the case, I will get a replacement.

http://dubiousquality.blogspot.com/2007/11/rock-band-replacement-stratocaster.html

has pics of the early model strummer (metal leaves) and the latest model (magnets)

http://community.rockband.com/vbforum/showthread.php?t=9692

has pics of (one of?) the intermediate models with microswitches.

im not positive, but i thought there were 4 different versions of guitars people had mentioned, however i can only find these 3

[BriGuy]

If you could make the regular fret buttons do that (auto-strum for solos), that would be helpful because my hands haven't gotten used to the cramped space that is the solo buttons.

I did this mod last night and I gotta tell you....It is freakin awesome! I took pictures of the mod and I'll post them later tonight but the basic details are quite simple.
The entire song can now be played with the main set of buttons and it makes the solos a breeze!!! I still can't quite beat GG&HT but I'm getting really close (those fast sections near the end are a *****!)
Unfortunately with my limited wiring knowledge, there doesn't seem to be an easy way to switch solo control back and forth, so I'd have to open it up and rewire it to function normally.
I'm still undecided if this is cheating or not. The game does allow for soloing like this with the smaller set of buttons but I for one find it a million times easier to use the main set.

Stay tuned for full details on this easy and glorious mod!

[Black_Heaven]

Surely I'm not the only one that wants to get two springs of equal strength to put on both sides of the strumbar to give it better and faster return to neutral movement. The trick is only finding the right strength of spring so that it springs back strong and fast enough to make the strumbar better but not so strong that it could cause double strums from over strumback motion.

This should be quite simple to do since the body and strumbar both already have hook-like appendages. Also I could swear I saw pics of this somewhere on what was preproduction controllers. Maybe they decided against it for some reason? I dunno, but I'd like to try it to see how it feels first hand.

[BriGuy]

I have also done another mod to this original one in which I use one of the effect selections to trigger this mod that way when I want to disable it I can. Personally I might get rid of it because I really can't see a reason to not leave ti like that all the time.

Could you detail how you did this? I'm sure it's ridiculously simple, but aside from 5 toggle switches, how could this be done?

[Frederf]

Surely I'm not the only one that wants to get two springs of equal strength to put on both sides of the strumbar to give it better and faster return to neutral movement. The trick is only finding the right strength of spring so that it springs back strong and fast enough to make the strumbar better but not so strong that it could cause double strums from over strumback motion.

This should be quite simple to do since the body and strumbar both already have hook-like appendages. Also I could swear I saw pics of this somewhere on what was preproduction controllers. Maybe they decided against it for some reason? I dunno, but I'd like to try it to see how it feels first hand.

I've done that with some rubber bands. It's quite a blast and a marked improvement in all but one area. I have yet to get the handle of double strumming with the new arrangement. Since it's more like a real taunt string now the old double strumming practice of grabbing the "string/strum" and holding the whole time while moving your hand up and down in time (which was never really realistic) doesn't have the same effect.

And no, flicking the strum with the new rubber banded setup does not cause accidental strums at all.

[BriGuy]

Superbump!!

My thread is a lot easier to manage over at scorehero where I can include as many pics as I want. It's the only way to really do this type of post, so to see an extensive look at all 4 known models of RB Strats, take a look at my sticky post here:
http://rockband.scorehero.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1902

[burnsy87]

The single screw that is holding the leaf switch in place can be loosened and the switch can be adjusted and moved closer to the strummer. I had to do this myself thanks to the double strumming effect I was getting. Since the switch was too far from the strummer, when I strummed down, it would make contact as normal, but if I pushed the strum bar down as far as it would go, the contact would break. When the strum bar was released and returned to the neutral position, it would make a second connection and "double strum." I tested this throughly with a digital multimeter that has a closed circuit tester (emits a tone when the circuit is closed).

I also added two low tension springs onto those hooks. Not sure if they do much, but it certainly doesn't hurt.

I did this method, but when i turned it counter clockwise(or clockwise for the matter) the plastic nub began moving close to the strumbar and then right when they were about to touch, that stupid little spacer on the metal piece made the metal piece bend back away. I dont have any clue if you know what im talking about but if you look at that tutorial in the link he posted, its that little spacer piece. Instead o took the metal piece with plyers and slightly bent it so it met with the strummer, but i still get the occasional double strum which sucks.